1964 Comet Caliente Convertible

1964 Comet Caliente Convertible
Nakita

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Rack and Pinion

So... as you might already know, parts on these cars are not straight up bolt-ons. Seems there are a few issues with a power steering version Comet. The tie rods are way too short. They need to be replaced with manual steering 1965 Comet / Mustang versions.

Parts required are:
Moog ES2004S
Moog ES336R
Moog ES713 The new rack and pinion went in, however there is major bump steer. We need to align the rack with the tie rod ends to fix this. The alignment must also be adjusted to run radial tires. As much caster as possible for the 1960's vehicles. Mine is running close to 3 degrees vs the 1 degree factory setting. BUENO NO BUENO

Monday, June 14, 2010

Speaking of Converters...

Update: ther are TWO C4 models which affect the length of the converter spline. Mine happens to be the rare, shorter model. Go figure...

Okay... well there is more when getting a converter. Here are a few questions to answer:

Bolt Circle (mine was 10.5)
Spline (mine was a 26, v8 model)
Car Weight (mine is 2861 lbs)

I ended up choosing a Boss Hog 2200-2800 stall speed. I'm hoping I'm close!

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

And Even More to Think About...

So my stock converter may not be the one for me. Just take a gander at this info...

If you are building an engine more for street use and cruising, a 4,000-rpm stall speed torque converter will not serve you well. You're going to need a stall speed between 1,800 rpm and 2,400 rpm for best results.

C4 transmissions is the vacuum modulator, which controls shifts points based on intake manifold vacuum (load and throttle position). Early C4 transmissions have a screw-in vacuum modulator. Later models have a press-in vacuum modulator held in place with a bracket as shown.

Stall speed should be selected so that the torque converter will reach its stall speed just before the engine starts it power-band (when torque output begins increasing sharply). Too much stall RPM will actually slow a car down by wasting part of the engine’s useful power curve. A stock torque converter in an AOD equipped Mustang will produce a stall speed of about 1800RPM, while the stock 5.0L H.O. engine enters its power-producing stage slightly later. Therefore, a stall speed of 2500 RPM is best for most stock and mildly modified 5.0L HO applications. If you have a 1994 to 1995 5.0L Mustang their AOD-E torque converters stall at about 2300 RPM, which is a significant improvement over the early AOD. These converters will only work with the AODE transmission, and will not retrofit back to the Earlier AOD. Vehicles with significantly altered valve events (i.e. large camshafts and/or huge valves) may benefit from stall speeds as high as 3000RPM or more depending upon configuration and torque curve. In such cases, it is best to consult your camshaft supplier or engine builder for optimum results.
For AOD transmissions (as well as C-4 and C-6 applications) there are a number of vendors providing high quality torque converters in many different configurations. As mentioned in the AOD section, Art Carr’s converters require use of their special input shaft for the AOD and are available in a variety of stall speeds and sizes. Precision Industries also makes converters in both "lockup" and "non-lockup" varieties for the AOD, AODE, 4R70W, and E4OD with stall speeds to order. In the case of converter clutch style transmissions, such as the AOD-E/4R70W, and E4OD we rarely advocate removing the lockup clutch assembly from the torque converter. Retaining lockup provides maximum efficiency and versatility with no adverse effect on vehicle performance. Baumann Electronic Controls is a Precision Industries dealer, and can provide you with a quality P. I. converter matched to your application. We have tried a number of different torque converters, and have seen the best performance and durability from the Precision converter. You don't have to just take our word for it, we suggest that you get objective recommendations from other performance enthusiasts and avoid using purchase price as the sole selection criteria. Search around and you will find that Precision Industries has a great reputation among converter manufacturers.
Picking your stall speed is fairly straight forward on a street machine: Look at your cam specs and see where it reaches its peak torque. Subtract 500 to 1000 from that rpm and you have the stall speed of your converter.

XE266HR cam and the Performer RPM Air Gap efficient operating ranges of the cam and intake match perfectly, producing an exceptional power curve that exceeded 320 lb-ft from 3,000 rpm all the way to 6,000 rpm.

Starting at 3,100 rpm, the torque curve reached 340 lb-ft and motored up to the peak of 377 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm

Thursday, May 20, 2010

The Basis To My Build

Ford 302 Engine Build Up - Modern Motivation
Real 302 Power for the Street
From the January, 2007 issue of Popular Hot Rodding
By Richard Holdener

When it comes to carbureted small-block Fords, a few notable candidates quickly come to mind. The early 271-hp (high-performance) 289s are naturally high on this list. Their high-revving nature allowed them to creep very close to the then-magical number of 1 (gross) hp per cubic inch. When Carroll Shelby came along and turned his performance wizards loose on the little Ford motor, they managed to up the power number to an impressive 306 hp from the little 289. Stepping up in displacement to the slightly larger 302, there is but one high watermark-the big bad boss himself. Though rated by Ford at just 290 hp, the real output of the legendary Boss 302 was thought to be considerably higher by racers and other performance enthusiasts in the know. Equipped with the free-flowing Cleveland-style cylinder heads, the Boss 302 was the small-bock Mustang to own and continues to be sought after by true Blue Oval enthusiasts.

As great as those early performance motors were, they simply can't compete with what is available today. Remember, it has been more than 30 years since Ford introduced the Boss and even longer since the heyday of the Shelby GT350 Mustangs. Technology has marched on in the form of high-flow aluminum cylinder heads, powerful camshafts and even more efficient carburetors (to say nothing of fuel injection). Benefiting from this infusion of technology are Ford enthusiasts. What this means is that the average early Mustang owner no longer needs to long for the performance offered by a HiPo, Boss or Shelby. Instead, you can whip up a performance street 302 using a select few aftermarket parts that would literally run circles around the best small-block Ford ever offered. In fact, thanks to modern technology, you can build a daily driven street motor that will out-perform even the FIA race motors used in the legendary Cobra Daytonas! How's that for impressive?

The key to all of this usable performance is in what we refer to as the power producers, namely the camshaft, cylinder heads and induction system. The aftermarket has made great strides in the last 30 years, so it should come as no surprise that we are able to surpass the power levels of yesteryear. Where 1 hp per cubic inch was the holy grail of power output for the manufacturers, it is now commonplace, at least for any performance street motor. In fact, if you built a performance 302 that only made 302 peak hp, you should consider your project somewhat less than successful, unless your buildup was more of a rebuild using primarily stock components. That we can now build a 302 that exceeds the power output of the early performance (and even race) motors should not be surprising, but that it can be done so easily and with excellent street manners is all the more impressive. Not only can a 302 be built that exceeds 375 hp, but such a motor can also be built for use as a daily driver. Such a motor offers not only impressive peak power numbers, but also a broad power band (torque curve) and acceptable idle quality. After all, who wants a temperamental race motor while they are inching along in bumper-to-bumper traffic?

Building a successful performance street 302 requires a game plan. Before choosing the necessary components, you must first decide on the intended application. Will the motor be used primarily for street with an occasional trip to the strip, or will time slips rule the buildup? Your choices will be different depending on how you answered these questions, but we chose the milder route, with an emphasis on street. Though our emphasis was on drivability, we didn't want to undermine performance altogether. One criterion that always enters into the picture is cost. If cost is no object, it is much easier to achieve your goals. I don't know about the rest of you, but I have never had the opportunity to build a cost-is-no-object motor. Realizing that the majority of these motors are built by cost-is-definitely-an-object enthusiasts, we made every effort to keep costs down. The cost factor also eliminates any exotic parts that tend to reduce reliability right along with the size of your bank account. Trick, exotic hardware may impress the folks at the local drive-in (do they still have those anywhere?), but try getting a replacement at your local parts store. A true daily driver means something that can be repaired with a quick trip to the your neighborhood parts store.

In keeping with the driver theme, our buildup began life with a stock 5.0L 302 block. The stock (late 5.0L) 302 block had many desirably qualities, including being set up to accept a hydraulic roller cam and attending valvetrain. While early 5.0L blocks came equipped with forged pistons from the factory, we decided to upgrade the stock short-block with a set of rods and pistons from Coast High Performance. While the factory components are more than adequate for this power level, for rock-solid reliability we stepped up to forged aftermarket rods and pistons. We retained the cast crank, since we had no intention of running the motor much past 6,000 rpm (certainly not more than 6,500 rpm). Given the short stroke and strength of the internals, the 302 short-block should be able to run to 6,000 rpm almost indefinitely.

The Probe Racing forged pistons combine with our TFS Twisted Wedge heads to produce a street-friendly static compression ratio 9.2:1. The relatively low compression allows easy use of 91-octane premium unleaded for maximum performance but will likely tolerate all the way down to 87 octane (regular unleaded) for the daily commute. The near flat-top pistons help optimize flame travel (requiring less initial timing) while the aluminum heads help dissipate combustion heat to further suppress detonation. With the CHP 5.0L short-block providing a solid foundation, the key to the performance of this street 302 was in the induction system. The critical elements to power production are the cylinder heads, camshaft and intake system. It should be noted that similar results could be obtained by using an early hydraulic flat-tappet 302 block. The flat-tappet cam would also allow a few more revs before valve float, as the hydraulic roller valvetrain is considerably heavier than the early flat-tappet system.

It wasn't long ago that the only choice for cylinder heads was the factory offerings. In the old days, your choices for topping a 5.0L or early 302 basically consisted of stock (E7TE) 5.0L casting, early 289 HiPo heads or the cream-of-the-crop 351 Windsor heads. Actually, none of these offered much performance, at least not compared to anything currently available from the after market. Early Mustang owners should thank their lucky stars that the late-model 5.0Ls became so popular, as performance parts abound for Windsor-based Fords, including cylinder heads.

Though many excellent heads are now available for the 302 (and 351), we chose a set of TFS Twisted Wedge aluminum heads for this street buildup. The choice was based on the fact that the TFS heads are offered by Summit Racing for around $1,000 complete and ready to bolt on. Looking at the flow numbers supplied by Trick Flow, the Twisted Wedge heads easily out-performed anything ever offered by the factory. Even more impressive is the fact that the TFS heads achieve their superior airflow not so much by excessive port volume, but by superior port shape. Anyone with a hand grinder can make something bigger, and bigger will usually flow more. The trick to getting an engine to produce more power is to maximize airflow while minimizing port volume. Basically speaking, you need to flow the maximum amount of air through the smallest possible hole. This creates something called velocity, which is critical to cylinder filling.

The TFS heads produced exceptional airflow through a rather small (compared to other aftermarket 5.0L heads) 170 cc intake port. The exhaust port is also relatively small at 66ccs, yet the intake flows as much as 251 cfm (@ .600 lift) and the exhaust flows 193 cfm at the same lift. These are big-time flow numbers, but the peak flow is only the tip of the iceberg. The TFS heads offered significant low and mid-lift flow numbers to match their high-lift flow. Basically, they represented a well-rounded package for our street 302. As we mentioned earlier, the TFS heads were also cast in aluminum. As such, the TFS heads provide a significant weight advantage over the factory cast iron heads. In terms of the all-important power-to-weight ratio, less weight is exactly the same as more power. The TFS heads weigh some 40 lbs less than the stock heads. Once you work with aluminum small-block heads, you will never want to lift a set of iron heads again. While the stock (5.0L E7TE) heads offered a diminutive 1.78/1.46 valve combination, the TFS Twisted Wedge heads come with sizable 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust valves. Given the substantial jump in valve size and port flow, it is easy to see why the TFS heads represent a major improvement over the factory castings.

Twisted Wedge heads get their name from the change in valve orientation. The TFS Twisted Wedge heads rotate (or twist) the valve orientation away from the inline-valve orientation employed on most traditional small-block Fords. As mentioned earlier, the aluminum heads also help dissipate heat much better than their cast-iron counterparts. This helps eliminate hot spots that can initiate detonation. Less weight, more power and reduced chance of detonation, what more can you ask of a cylinder head?

With our heads bolted in place, it was time to choose a suitable cam. The cam and intake manifold actually decide the effective power band of the motor. Match the two and you get a motor with a broad, usable power band. Mismatch them and you wind up with a cam that wants to make power after the rest of the components have signed off. The result is less power everywhere. Since impressive street performance (with daily drivability) was the design criteria, we selected a rather mild cam that provided exceptional power. Selecting from COMP Cams' Xtreme Energy line up, we chose the middle of the road XE266HR cam. There are smaller and larger varieties available, but the XE266HR provides an ideal combination of power and idle quality for this daily driver. Since the TFS heads flow well up to 0.600-inch valve lift and are equipped with sufficient spring pressure and clearance to accept this mid-0.500 lift cam, the XE266HR seemed to be an excellent choice. We have had nothing but success with the Xtreme Energy line of hydraulic roller cams, from the XE258HR all the way up to the XE282HR. The aggressive ramp rates employed on these Xtreme Energy cams allow them to produce exceptional power.

In keeping with the street nature of the buildup, we chose an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake for the 302. Though a single-plane Victor will make slightly more peak horsepower, the dual-plane Performer RPM offers significantly more power up to 5,500 rpm, where the vast majority of the driving is done. Even on the track, the Performer RPM would offer better overall acceleration, as the Victor Jr. intake only out-performs the RPM by the slimmest of margins from 5,700 rpm to 6,000 rpm. The RPM delivers as much as 25-30 additional lb-ft down at 3,500 rpm, and carries that advantage all the way to 5,500 rpm. We obviously tested the 302 with the Victor Jr., but the dual-plane RPM is the better choice. Credit the longer runners in the dual-plane design for the additional torque production. Also credit the match between the XE266HR cam and the Performer RPM Air Gap. The efficient operating ranges of the cam and intake match perfectly, producing an exceptional power curve that exceeded 320 lb-ft from 3,000 rpm all the way to 6,000 rpm.

The finishing touches on our 302 included a 650 Speed Demon carburetor, an MSD ignition and a set of Hooker 1 5/8-inch long-tube headers. The headers were used in conjunction with a set of 3-inch MagnaFlow mufflers on the dyno, resulting in a free-flowing exhaust system not unlike something that might be found on the car. The ignition consisted of a billet MSD distributor, plug wires, and Blaster coil. Since the compression checked in a 9.2:1, there was no need to opt for the expense of an ignition amplifier. The carburetor chosen for the 302 dyno test was a 650 cfm Speed Demon. While a 750 carburetor might have produced a few more horsepower (or maybe not), the smaller carb is certainly the best choice for street use. The BG 650 Speed Demon carb would certainly offer improved the low-speed throttle response with little or no sacrifice in top-end power. The final performance component used in the buildup was a set of 1.6 ratio roller rockers. These stainless steel rockers from COMP Cams were used to ensure accurate valvetrain geometry. TFS heads require an adjustable valvetrain, so we opted for one of the best rocker sets available for the 302.

Once everything was bolted together, we installed the motor on the SuperFlow dyno at Westech Performance. There was no need to subject the motor to any break-in procedure, as the short-block had been run previously for another test. The motor was run with five quarts of 5W-30 Lucas synthetic oil. After bringing the fluids up to temperature, we began some low-speed power pulls. With some minor jetting and timing changes, an acceleration test was run from 3,000 rpm to 6,000 rpm. The results were indeed impressive. The little street 302 pumped out 396 hp and 377 lb-ft of torque. We have tested 302 strokers that don't make that kind of power! Not usually known for impressive torque production, this little 302 exceeded 320 lb-ft of torque from 2,900 rpm all the way to 6,000 rpm. In the sweet spot between 3,700 rpm and 5,800 rpm, the 302 thumped out over 360 lb-ft of torque. That's what we call an impressive mid-range, especially for a short-stroke 302. At 396 hp, this 302 will easily outrun any of the performance Mustangs of yesteryear, including most of the factory big-blocks. The best part about this buildup is that you can produce these kinds of power numbers with nothing more elaborate than adding the right cam, heads and intake to a mild (or even stock) 302 short-block.

The first thing you should notice is that the 302 produced impressive torque, exceeding 310 lb-ft all the way down at 2,500 rpm. Check out what happened to the torque curve as the motor came up on the cam. Starting at 3,100 rpm, the torque curve reached 340 lb-ft and motored up to the peak of 377 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm. Despite the short stroke, the torque output exceeded 360 lb-ft from 3,700 rpm to 5,800 rpm. A streetable 302 that produces 360 lb-ft of peak torque is impressive, but this one managed to carry 350-plus-lb-ft over a range of 2,100 rpm. In looking at the power curve, it appears that some additional valvespring pressure may have cured what we suspect was a minor valve float problem and allowed this motor to exceed 400 hp. Even at 396 hp, this 302 will easily outrun any stock Boss 302. At just 225 hp and 300 lb-ft of torque, an early 5.0L Mustang is an easy 14-second car. Just imagine another 170 hp and 70 lb-ft of torque in a lighter '65 Mustang. This motor should propel a 3,000-lb early Mustang into the low-13s, maybe even 12s with slicks.

Torque Converter

So I looked into a locking torque converter. None to be had for a C-4. Okay, then I'm good with the stocker. Parts accumulated so far is vast. I didn't prepare for such a list when I first started with this project. Either way, it's getting interesting. Very interesting.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Edelbrock Heads

So the box said "bolt on and go!" Well... not quite. The heads need to use a 7/16 base and a 3/8 out stud. I guess this is an issue with these heads when used with guide plates. So... off to Crane for a "Pedestal to Adjustable Rocker Arm" conversion kit. Okay, now the budgeted 200 bucks has become 300 bucks. Gotta love the bolt on and go crap.

And for the timing chain and sprockets... 2 types! One piece and two piece fuel pump eccentrics. I don't know which I have unless I tear the motor open. Okay...

I'm still waiting on the torque converter for the C-4. Hummmm.

Monday, May 17, 2010

The C-4

Picked up the rebuilt C-4 from Transmissions By Gene. Quite the interesting chap. He's been doing transmissions for over 40 years, and knows his stuff. I now have a C-4 with a B&M Shift Kit sitting in my living room. Thank God I live alone. I planned on picking up the converter, but no time today. I'm counting on tomorrow to do so.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Cams and Heads

If I have not heard of 20 different combos... good God. Well I'm now down to using Edelbrock heads and a Comp Cam. Part numbers EDL-60379 and CCA-35-514-8. I'm hoping this a street setup kicking in around 1000rpm. I'm combining this with an RPM intake and a 600cfm 4 barrel carburetor. The big deal on cams is duration and lift. Less duration, lower RPM power range. Less lift, less power. The heads must me able to handle the lift you choose, and make sure it's the right hydraulic roller setup!

I also realized that this new block does not use a mechanical fuel pump, so I'm back to Summit for a pump and regulator. I'm also facing issues withe the oil pan... Fox vs old school front oil feeder. No this is not just a "drop in".

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Side Notes

There were 9,039 of the 1964 Caliente convertible built. There were 6,035 of the 1965 Caliente convertible built.

A 302 in a Toyota

I picked up the 302 in Morgan Hill yesterday afternoon. It's still sitting in the bed of my truck since I have no way of removing it at this time. I have no cherry picker or even an engine stand. Matt seemed pretty straight up on what the motor was and it's condition. I also bought a 50oz flex plate to boot. Now I'm working on locating a rebuilt C-4.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

The C-4 Transmission

www.mustangmonthly.com

C4 Highlights
'64-'66 Known as the C4 Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic with a very specific transmission selector with a small dot and a large dot (hence the name "Dual-Range"). There has always been a lot of confusion about which dot to use. Use the large dot for normal driving. The small dot keeps it in second gear for driving on icy roads or when a gentle start is required. This version has a 24-spline input shaft (.788-inch) and 24-spline output shaft.

'67-'69 Select-Shift with standard PRND21 selector pattern. Has a 24-spline input shaft (.788-inch) and 24-spline output shaft.

'70 Only Select-Shift with PRND21 pattern with 26-spline input shaft (.839-inch) and 26-spline output shaft. If you're going with the larger 26-spline input shaft in an earlier C4 (prior to 1970), you will need to change the reverse/high clutch drum (forward most clutch), forward clutch cylinder, #3 thrust washer, and front pump.

'71-'81 Select-Shift with PRND21 pattern with 26-spline input shaft (.839-inch) and back to 24-spline output shaft.

'82-'86 Select-Shift C5 is an improved C4 with locking torque converter for better fuel economy. The C5 case is easily identified by casting numbers that begin D2, D3, D4, D5, and D6. The C5 was replaced by the Automatic Overdrive (AOD).

There were two bellhousing sizes for V-8 C4 transmissions - 157-tooth flex plate and 164-tooth flex plate.

There was also a pan-fill C4 designed for trucks with a 164-tooth flex plate. Stay away from these for Mustang applications.

Pinto ('71-'80) and Mustang II ('74-'78) got their own C4 with a smaller bellhousing and 143-tooth flex plate to clear smaller transmission tunnels. They also had a unique valve body. If you're running an '82-up 5.0L engine, you will need a 50-ounce offset balance flex plate or face severe engine vibration.

157-tooth flex plates have a 10.5-inch torque converter bolt pattern while 164-tooth have 11-7/16-inch.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/transmission-articles/483478-fox-mustang-t5-c4-swap.html

The Search

I have an appointment today after work to check out an HO. The guy is a well rounded hot rod builder and assures me the motor is a drop in. At 600 bucks, it is a steal even if it needs a top rebuild. It's a 1993 HO roller cam, bone stock. This is exactly what I was looking for. 1993 was last year of forged pistons and goodies. Here is some info I found on a forum. The 1993 model lost 20hp due to Ford's recalibration of how they measure HP. Same power, different number.

H.O. = '82-'95

All H.O. 5.0L engines had:
351W firing order ('82-'84, and '85 CFI, had a cam from a '73 351W Torino)
double roller timing chain

'82-'84 H.O., and '85 CFI H.O., did not have:
different heads than non-.H.O. ('86 also)
roller block (late '85' CFI did)
roller cam
forged pistons (late '92+ also)
headers (late '85 CFI did)

'82 = 8.4:1, 157 HP
'83 = 8.3:1, 175 HP
'84 = 8.3:1, 175 HP (4V) or 165 HP (CFI)
'85 = 8.3:1, 210 HP (4V), 165 HP (early CFI), or 180 HP (late CFI)
'86 = 9.2:1, 200 HP
'87-'92 = 9.0:1, 225 HP
'93 = 9.0:1, 205 HP (GT/LX 5.0L) or 235 HP (Cobra)

Non-H.O. 5.0L engines got roller blocks and cams in the mid-to-late '80s.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Engine Plans Phase 1

Although a bit hesitant, I am looking at a used 1993 HO motor tomorrow night. It has 80k miles, but I figure the bottom end has to be tight. The top end will eventually be opened up.

I also talked to a guy regarding transmissions. Seems there is a little bit of thinking to do.

"I am planning (next year) to run COMP Cam's XE266HR cam, flowed heads and my current Edelbrock RPM intake and 4 barrel carb, hoping to produce around 300HP. (all specs taken from a Ford site, which got 340HP on the dyno) I'm looking for low end power vs high revving stuff. This is just going to be a mild street build, as I'm not gonna race a family convertible!

I also came across an issue that I was unaware of. The spline on the input shaft may vary on the 302 motors. I also heard that there are different torque converters (drain next to the drive stud and the drain plug in between the drive studs). Since you will have the motor to look at, I am guessing this would not be an issue? Like I said I plan on getting the engine sometime this week.

Another area that worries me is the mating of your C4 transmission and the 1993 HO motor. As I've read, I need to be aware of the flex plate issue: different weight and different number of teeth.

I understand that the later model HO will be using a 50oz, 164 tooth flex plate. Will your transmission be a later model that would accept this flex plate perfectly? I understand there are small bellhousing C4's and large bellhousing C4's. The larger, running the correct 164 tooth count. I also read about harmonic balancers, but I'm not exactly sure how that comes into play.

The Restoration List

PHASE 8: TO BE COMPLETED
1986-1993 302 HO Roller Cam
GT40 heads ported and flowed/TFS Twisted Wedge aluminum heads
COMP Cam Xtreme Energy XE266HR
COMP Cam Ultra Gold 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake
C4 - B&M modified (rebuild)

PHASE 7: TO BE COMPLETED
Rack and Pinion Steering
Total Control Manual Steering Rack and Pinion
Modified power brake booster

PHASE 6: TO BE COMPLETED
Top Installation, bench repair, interior chroming, steering wheel replacement.

PHASE 5: COMPLETED March 2006
Color Options 2004 Ford Shadow Green

PHASE 4: COMPLETED September 2005
Wheels #ARE-5056765 American Racing, Series 505 16x7 inch Alloys with 4.5 bolt circle,
4.5 inches of backspacing 205/55-16 front tires 225/50/16 Rear

PHASE 3: COMPLETED December 2005
SSBrakes Disk Brake Conversion kit #A120D

PHASE 2: COMPLETED August 2004
The Motor (289 V8 Comet K):

INTAKE
Edlebrock #2121 Performer intake manifold
WaterPump #MIL-16230
16 inch flex fan
Edlebrock 600 CFM 4 Barrel
Mallory electronic Distributor MAA-3755101
Ballast Resistor
High Output Coil MAA-29216
Plug Wire Kit SUM-G926
Fan Shroud

PHASE 1: COMPLETED, August 2004
Suspension 1965-66 Grab-A-Trak™ Performance Suspension Rebuild Kit
Cut coils 1/4" for 3/4 inch drop 1/2 inch lowering blocks on rear

OTHER:
Hooker Super Comp Headers HOK-6102HKR
Generator to Alternator conversion (130 AMP)

And Away We Go...

This journey actually started in April of 2004, when I came across a "collectors" car. Brown in hue from all its cancerous rust, barely breathing from 40 year old motor and its soft top that resembled an overwashed pair of blue jeans, I could only think that this car was good for one of two things... the recycling center or a car fanatic. Fixing a car in this kind of condition would be shear insanity. This is my story of the onslaught of mental illness, and a rusty sixty-four Comet.